13.12.2021
List
Surrealist Earrings

Weird World: Surrealist Earrings

Juxtaposing elements that aren’t normally found together can produce startling effects—which is good news for jewelry. There’s no excuse not to be striking. When reality can seem skewed, it feels good to look at works of controlled chaos. We’ve rounded up our favorite offerings that feel the most surreal, with the paintings to match.
  1. Ottolinger Black Rubber Dipped Drop Earrings and Joan Miró’s The Tilled Field
    Inscrutable, organic forms—a theme in Miró’s work upon moving to Paris, but also maybe manifesting in these earrings. Dip, dip, drop earrings.
  2. Faris Gold Mismatched Plie Earrings and Yves Tanguy’s Indefined Divisibility
    When it comes to earrings, think Tanguy. This work from 1942 seems almost contemporary, reminding us that ambiguity can feel timeless.
  3. Faris Gold Mismatched Plie Earrings and Yves Tanguy’s Indefined Divisibility
    When it comes to earrings, think Tanguy. This work from 1942 seems almost contemporary, reminding us that ambiguity can feel timeless.
29.4.2020
Editorial
History of the Nike Air Jordan 1

The Complete History of the Nike Air Jordan 1

Words: Drew Hammell

The story of the Nike Air Jordan 1 is complex and full of intricate details. Every passing year, the legend of the man that made the Air Jordan 1 famous becomes larger and more fantastic. As sneaker culture continues to flourish, becoming a multi-billion-dollar worldwide phenomenon, it’s worth taking a look back at how a fairly simple sneaker made of red, white, and black leather influenced everything from the game of basketball to fashion and modern-day marketing.

In 1984, the Chicago Bulls selected Michael Jordan as the third overall pick in the NBA Draft. Big men Hakeem Olajuwon (Houston Rockets) and Sam Bowie (Portland Trail Blazers) were selected before Jordan, mainly because teams back then prioritized centers more than guards. The New York Times didn’t even mention college player of the year Jordan until near the end of its draft report.

Although Jordan wasn’t top pick, the Bulls were still confident enough in his abilities to sign him to a seven-year, $6 million deal — the third-largest rookie contract in league history at the time behind Olajuwon and Ralph Sampson.

While contract negotiations were progressing with the Bulls, Nike was working on its own deal with Jordan. There were several key people involved in the negotiations. The story is complex and much-disputed, but as told by Sonny Vaccaro, a shady marketing agent who signed up college basketball coaches to Nike, he convinced Swoosh marketing director Rob Strasser that Jordan was worth signing at any cost.

Among the others involved were Nike designer Peter Moore, who came up with the Air Jordan 1 sneaker design and “Wings” logo (he also gave us the Nike Dunk), Donald Dell, who was president of sports management firm ProServ, and Jordan’s agent David Falk, who negotiated the Nike deal and worked for ProServ.

Dell was a former tennis pro, and tennis players were marketed much better than basketball stars at the time. The ProServ chief had overseen the successful marketing of tennis stars such as Stan Smith and Arthur Ashe, and his goal was to showcase Jordan in the same way.

The negotiation process was far from easy, as Falk was demanding a lot from whichever brand wanted to sign the young phenom. Jordan loved adidas and wanted to sign with the German giant, but the company was in a state of flux after founder Adi Dassler’s death in 1978 and let Jordan slip through its fingers.

Converse was in the mix as well, with Jordan having worn the Boston brand’s shoes throughout college due to the deal North Carolina coach Dean Smith (pictured with Jordan at a press conference above) had with the company. Converse was prepared to market Jordan alongside its other stars Magic Johnson and Larry Bird, but was offering nothing new in terms of footwear ideas.

Jordan had no interest in Nike and practically had to be dragged to the company’s presentation in Beaverton, Oregon. But the Swoosh had the biggest and boldest plan to differentiate Jordan from the rest of the league’s stars. Jordan had preferred adidas because its shoes were lower to the ground than Nike’s. Now Nike was offering an all-new shoe tailored to his needs. It would even go on to accommodate his different-sized feet (left, size 13; right, size 13.5).

29.4.2020
Editorial
History of the Nike Air Jordan 1

The Complete History of the Nike Air Jordan 1

Words: Drew Hammell

The story of the Nike Air Jordan 1 is complex and full of intricate details. Every passing year, the legend of the man that made the Air Jordan 1 famous becomes larger and more fantastic. As sneaker culture continues to flourish, becoming a multi-billion-dollar worldwide phenomenon, it’s worth taking a look back at how a fairly simple sneaker made of red, white, and black leather influenced everything from the game of basketball to fashion and modern-day marketing.

In 1984, the Chicago Bulls selected Michael Jordan as the third overall pick in the NBA Draft. Big men Hakeem Olajuwon (Houston Rockets) and Sam Bowie (Portland Trail Blazers) were selected before Jordan, mainly because teams back then prioritized centers more than guards. The New York Times didn’t even mention college player of the year Jordan until near the end of its draft report.

Although Jordan wasn’t top pick, the Bulls were still confident enough in his abilities to sign him to a seven-year, $6 million deal — the third-largest rookie contract in league history at the time behind Olajuwon and Ralph Sampson.

While contract negotiations were progressing with the Bulls, Nike was working on its own deal with Jordan. There were several key people involved in the negotiations. The story is complex and much-disputed, but as told by Sonny Vaccaro, a shady marketing agent who signed up college basketball coaches to Nike, he convinced Swoosh marketing director Rob Strasser that Jordan was worth signing at any cost.

Among the others involved were Nike designer Peter Moore, who came up with the Air Jordan 1 sneaker design and “Wings” logo (he also gave us the Nike Dunk), Donald Dell, who was president of sports management firm ProServ, and Jordan’s agent David Falk, who negotiated the Nike deal and worked for ProServ.

Dell was a former tennis pro, and tennis players were marketed much better than basketball stars at the time. The ProServ chief had overseen the successful marketing of tennis stars such as Stan Smith and Arthur Ashe, and his goal was to showcase Jordan in the same way.

The negotiation process was far from easy, as Falk was demanding a lot from whichever brand wanted to sign the young phenom. Jordan loved adidas and wanted to sign with the German giant, but the company was in a state of flux after founder Adi Dassler’s death in 1978 and let Jordan slip through its fingers.

Converse was in the mix as well, with Jordan having worn the Boston brand’s shoes throughout college due to the deal North Carolina coach Dean Smith (pictured with Jordan at a press conference above) had with the company. Converse was prepared to market Jordan alongside its other stars Magic Johnson and Larry Bird, but was offering nothing new in terms of footwear ideas.

Jordan had no interest in Nike and practically had to be dragged to the company’s presentation in Beaverton, Oregon. But the Swoosh had the biggest and boldest plan to differentiate Jordan from the rest of the league’s stars. Jordan had preferred adidas because its shoes were lower to the ground than Nike’s. Now Nike was offering an all-new shoe tailored to his needs. It would even go on to accommodate his different-sized feet (left, size 13; right, size 13.5).

29.4.2020
Editorial
History of the Nike Air Jordan 1

The Complete History of the Nike Air Jordan 1

Words: Drew Hammell

The story of the Nike Air Jordan 1 is complex and full of intricate details. Every passing year, the legend of the man that made the Air Jordan 1 famous becomes larger and more fantastic. As sneaker culture continues to flourish, becoming a multi-billion-dollar worldwide phenomenon, it’s worth taking a look back at how a fairly simple sneaker made of red, white, and black leather influenced everything from the game of basketball to fashion and modern-day marketing.

In 1984, the Chicago Bulls selected Michael Jordan as the third overall pick in the NBA Draft. Big men Hakeem Olajuwon (Houston Rockets) and Sam Bowie (Portland Trail Blazers) were selected before Jordan, mainly because teams back then prioritized centers more than guards. The New York Times didn’t even mention college player of the year Jordan until near the end of its draft report.

Although Jordan wasn’t top pick, the Bulls were still confident enough in his abilities to sign him to a seven-year, $6 million deal — the third-largest rookie contract in league history at the time behind Olajuwon and Ralph Sampson.

While contract negotiations were progressing with the Bulls, Nike was working on its own deal with Jordan. There were several key people involved in the negotiations. The story is complex and much-disputed, but as told by Sonny Vaccaro, a shady marketing agent who signed up college basketball coaches to Nike, he convinced Swoosh marketing director Rob Strasser that Jordan was worth signing at any cost.

Among the others involved were Nike designer Peter Moore, who came up with the Air Jordan 1 sneaker design and “Wings” logo (he also gave us the Nike Dunk), Donald Dell, who was president of sports management firm ProServ, and Jordan’s agent David Falk, who negotiated the Nike deal and worked for ProServ.

Although Jordan wasn’t top pick, the Bulls were still confident enough in his abilities to sign him to a seven-year, $6 million deal — the third-largest rookie contract in league history at the time behind Olajuwon and Ralph Sampson.

While contract negotiations were progressing with the Bulls, Nike was working on its own deal with Jordan. There were several key people involved in the negotiations. The story is complex and much-disputed, but as told by Sonny Vaccaro, a shady marketing agent who signed up college basketball coaches to Nike, he convinced Swoosh marketing director Rob Strasser that Jordan was worth signing at any cost.

Among the others involved were Nike designer Peter Moore, who came up with the Air Jordan 1 sneaker design and “Wings” logo (he also gave us the Nike Dunk), Donald Dell, who was president of sports management firm ProServ, and Jordan’s agent David Falk, who negotiated the Nike deal and worked for ProServ.

29.4.2020
Editorial
Minimalist Scandinavian

Minimalist Scandinavian interior by Emil Dervish

Words: Mariana Bettinelli

“Copenhagen” is a family home designed by architect Emil Dervish and located in Copenhagen, Denmark. The 66-square meters apartment is a bright and airy minimalist space characterized by natural tones and materials.

The architect created an open floor plan that allows natural light to spread throughout the space and provides a more open and welcoming environment for guests. Built-ins wardrobes are used to create partitions and for additional storage space.

Herringbone floors are laid out throughout the home while small square tiles line the floors and walls of the bathroom.

29.4.2020
Editorial
Minimalist Scandinavian

Minimalist Scandinavian interior by Emil Dervish

Words: Mariana Bettinelli

“Copenhagen” is a family home designed by architect Emil Dervish and located in Copenhagen, Denmark. The 66-square meters apartment is a bright and airy minimalist space characterized by natural tones and materials.

The architect created an open floor plan that allows natural light to spread throughout the space and provides a more open and welcoming environment for guests. Built-ins wardrobes are used to create partitions and for additional storage space.

Herringbone floors are laid out throughout the home while small square tiles line the floors and walls of the bathroom.

29.4.2020
Editorial
Minimalist Scandinavian

Minimalist Scandinavian interior by Emil Dervish

Words: Mariana Bettinelli

“Copenhagen” is a family home designed by architect Emil Dervish and located in Copenhagen, Denmark. The 66-square meters apartment is a bright and airy minimalist space characterized by natural tones and materials.

The architect created an open floor plan that allows natural light to spread throughout the space and provides a more open and welcoming environment for guests. Built-ins wardrobes are used to create partitions and for additional storage space.

Herringbone floors are laid out throughout the home while small square tiles line the floors and walls of the bathroom.

2.6.2020
No weak links
Animation: Otto Salmi
New Archivist:
Emily Marant
Emily Marant is undoubtedly one of the most creative figures currently lighting up the French fashion world. She hones an effortless (and eminently Parisian) style, sitting somewhereone between casual and chic.
29.4.2020
Editorial
Demin Love

"Vapour around me"

Photo: Kafka

When, while the lovely valley teems with vapour around me, and the meridian sun strikes the upper surface of the impenetrable foliage of my trees, and but a few stray gleams steal into the inner sanctuary, I throw myself down among the tall grass by the trickling stream; and, as I lie close to the earth, a thousand unknown plants are noticed by me: when I hear the buzz of the little world among the stalks, and grow familiar with the countless indescribable forms of the insects and flies.

29.4.2020
Editorial
Demin Love

"Vapour around me"

Photo: Kafka

When, while the lovely valley teems with vapour around me, and the meridian sun strikes the upper surface of the impenetrable foliage of my trees, and but a few stray gleams steal into the inner sanctuary, I throw myself down among the tall grass by the trickling stream; and, as I lie close to the earth, a thousand unknown plants are noticed by me: when I hear the buzz of the little world among the stalks, and grow familiar with the countless indescribable forms of the insects and flies.

29.4.2020
Editorial
Demin Love

"Vapour around me"

Photo: Kafka

When, while the lovely valley teems with vapour around me, and the meridian sun strikes the upper surface of the impenetrable foliage of my trees, and but a few stray gleams steal into the inner sanctuary, I throw myself down among the tall grass by the trickling stream; and, as I lie close to the earth, a thousand unknown plants are noticed by me: when I hear the buzz of the little world among the stalks, and grow familiar with the countless indescribable forms of the insects and flies.

28.4.2020
Editorial
Unpacking

Unpack.

Photo by: Mark Libz

One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams, he found himself transformed in his bed into a horrible vermin.

He lay on his armour-like back, and if he lifted his head a little he could see his brown belly, slightly domed and divided by arches into stiff sections. The bedding was hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment.

His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of him, waved about helplessly as he looked. "What's happened to me? " he thought. It wasn't a dream.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table - Samsa was a travelling salesman - and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. It showed a lady fitted out with a fur hat and fur boa who sat upright, raising a heavy fur muff that covered the whole.

28.4.2020
Editorial
Unpacking

Unpack.

Photo by: Mark Libz

One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams, he found himself transformed in his bed into a horrible vermin.

He lay on his armour-like back, and if he lifted his head a little he could see his brown belly, slightly domed and divided by arches into stiff sections. The bedding was hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment.

His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of him, waved about helplessly as he looked. "What's happened to me? " he thought. It wasn't a dream.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table - Samsa was a travelling salesman - and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. It showed a lady fitted out with a fur hat and fur boa who sat upright, raising a heavy fur muff that covered the whole.

28.4.2020
Editorial
Unpacking

Unpack.

Photo by: Mark Libz

One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams, he found himself transformed in his bed into a horrible vermin.

He lay on his armour-like back, and if he lifted his head a little he could see his brown belly, slightly domed and divided by arches into stiff sections. The bedding was hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment.

His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of him, waved about helplessly as he looked. "What's happened to me? " he thought. It wasn't a dream.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table - Samsa was a travelling salesman - and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. It showed a lady fitted out with a fur hat and fur boa who sat upright, raising a heavy fur muff that covered the whole.

2.6.2020
Interview
Telfar Clemens Interview
Archivist: Telfar Clemens
Ten years before genderless garmentry was truly topical, a teenage designer in Queens named Telfar Clemens had already quietly launched his uniquely unisex line. Since then he’s reached radical heights—designing a White Castle uniform capsule with proceeds paying bail for minors held on Rikers Island, receiving a retrospective at the Berlin Biennale, winning the 2017 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, and coming out with a wild, collaborative collection for Next Century, the recently opened experimental concept store inside favorite New York discount designer outlet Century 21. The Telfar brand is built on Clemens’ consistency in honoring the concept of community with a democratic approach to clothing. Telfar provides for the truly fashionable post-identity generation of the moment, rallying the label’s fanbase with a bold collectivist maxim: “It’s not for you—it’s for everyone.”
Photography – Mitch Connell

What is your ideal office?

My ideal office is somewhere you can actually work, concentrate, create, and sometimes sleep. Basically a home office.

How do you manage to feel at home when you’re far away?

Taking everything from home with me to that faraway place. I don’t leave anything behind.

What has been the worst fashion trend?

Trends in general. The most valuable thing fashion offers is the option to be an individual.

Do you have a spirit animal?

No, I don’t.

What makes you feel safe?

Smart people.

What do you feel is your best feature?

My brain.

What was the last website you looked at?

MyVidster.

When was the last time you laughed until you cried?

The last time, I was in NYC talking with my friends. It happens all the time.

If you had to wear one outfit for eternity, what would you wear?

If you had to wear one outfit for eternity, what would you wear?

White Telfar shirt, Telfar jeans, Telfar basic sneakers.

What is the most inspirational place on the planet?

NYC really inspires me I guess, ‘cause i get it. I guess anywhere there is a wide mixture of people and cultures inspires me.

Who do you envision wearing Telfar, and what defines them?

I envision everyone wearing Telfar, what defines them should have no relation from one person to another. Besides, the idea of comfort in whatever it is that they are wearing or attraction to whatever it is, that’s Telfar.

What is your favorite type of music to work to?

Music in general, music with lyrics.

What is the most memorable clothing from your lifetime thus far?

I guess my own clothes, these are the things I know the best.

What is your greatest fear?

Snakes, balloons, idiots with influence.

1.6.2020
Interview
Silk & Rope

At the end of the day, it’s just clothes

From the east end of London, husband and wife Enric and Estefi Jorba run a vintage clothing company that’s sought out by stylists, celebrities and major fashion labels. But Silk & Rope is old school – it doesn’t even have a website. Ana Santi talks fashion, freedom and how to avoid being naked when people want to buy the clothes off your back.
Photography by Matt Stuart.

In the early morning light, as Portobello market traders shift rusty clothes rails and sweet smoke fills the air, hand-embroidered dresses and prized Edwardian tulle blouses are being hung in prime position. Enric Jorba has been here since 6am. “That’s not early, 3am is!” he laughs. Silk & Rope – a vintage fashion duo, formed with his wife Estefania Vidal – often attend appointments in the dark.

Their life is a world away from mainstream fashion, rooted in personal, face-to-face relationships for the exchange of exquisite, vintage clothing. There is no website, only Instagram, and there’s not even a computer at their archive in east London, a floor-to-ceiling treasure trove where the collection is housed.

“I take ages to reply to emails,” Estefi moans over FaceTime (she’s skipping the markets for now to be home with their three-month-old daughter Lulu, a sister to Coco). But it doesn’t matter; when Florence Welch wants an outfit, her stylist Aldene Johnson picks up the phone.

It might appear quaint and old-school on the surface. But, it embraces the values their industry was once built on – beauty, individuality and self-expression. Eric and Estefi will jump in a van to take a US road trip, on the hunt for hand-embroidered silk kimonos (Estefi’s favorites) and military jackets (Enric’s). These rare finds are either sold or hired by designers in markets – normally Portobello or Spitalfields in east London – or at the couple’s archive, where most business is done.

It’s a world of secrets, too, of keeping your cards close to your chest. Ask Enric where he found the 1920s floral print blouse and he’ll reply, roaring with laughter, “Somewhere between Barcelona and London!” He gives away a little more about the origins of a fringed, military jacket adorned with badges from the late 1960s to early 1970s, which you can buy for £650 or rent for £100 per week.

“That was on a road trip from New York to LA, in an antique shop where this guy was selling old coins and guns,” Enric recalls. “You’re buying a little piece of history. In each badge, there’s a story to tell.”

Enric and Estefi were childhood sweethearts. They went to the same school in Barcelona, but only afterwards, when Estefi was 19 and Enric 20, did the two properly meet. “I went to a friend’s house for lunch and he was there, and I was like, ‘oh, hello!’ But he remembers me from when I was seven!” Estefi says. “There was a party, and musical chairs apparently, and he came up to me and said, ‘Can I play with you?’ And I said no!”

Before they moved to London – they’ve lived in the UK for 11 years now – Enric worked in advertising and Estefi in television, but both shared a love of clothes, “back in the day when we wore our Adidas jackets!” Estefi laughs.

under construction

en construction

under konstruktion

in costruzione

в разработке

تحت التشيد

工事中

under construction

en construction

under konstruktion

in costruzione

в разработке

تحت التشيد

工事中